Sunday, March 24, 2013

Blue Duck Tavern - Washington, DC


The Blue Duck Tavern is the highly acclaimed restaurant located inside of the Park Hyatt Washington DC.  Highly acclaimed chef Sebastian Archambault mans the helm at the open kitchen.  Many tears were shed when Archambault left the Andaz West Hollywood to take his talents east to the Park Hyatt.

The restaurant’s open floor plan makes the restaurant appear bigger than it actually is.  Simply decorated yet elegant, another marvelous job by Tony Chi, brings the space to life.

Bread
The meal begins with thick cut country bread with sweet cream butter.  It would be nice if either the bread was warm, the butter softer or both.

Beet Salad
The Roasted Beet Salad ($11) is a take on a classic with goat cheese, but the addition of peanut oil and cherry vinegar gives the salad a sweet, acidic punch.  Although a well composed salad, the beets may not have been cooked long enough to bring out the natural sugars of the purple root vegetable.

Roasted Bone Marrow
The Wood Oven Roasted Bone Marrow ($14) is nature’s luscious fatty goodness.  Topped with granola, which is barely discernible, and red wine apple butter the combination adds a bright note to an otherwise super rich dish.  Served with thick country bread, this is the kind of toast to kick start your day.
Crab Cake
The Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($16) is filled with huge chunks of briny crab.  There is no filler, and only held together with a little too much mayo sitting atop a mound of coral aoli and frisee. 

Rack of Boar

The Roasted Boar Rack ($28) is a gamier version of pork.  It is also super lean, but still moist and juicy.  Served with braised red cabbage and a bourbon jus, the sweetness of the cabbage uplifts the meatiness of the boar.

Braised Short Rib
The Braised Beef Rib ($25) remains tender and juicy.  Served with a house made steak sauce that was a little too salty, the dish could have been better if the sauce was a little thicker.  Although the beef rib was not “fall apart”, a solid dish nevertheless.

Grits
The Creamy Stone Ground Grits ($8) is paired with smoked gouda, a culinary curveball.  Somehow, the combination works.  The grits are a little loose but could have been a little more enjoyable if it was a little tighter as it would have been a better starch combination with the entrees.

Brussels Sprouts
The Brussels Sprouts ($8) was a dish that just did not work for me.  It contained cranberries, which did add some acid and sweetness.  I am not fond of sweet things in savory dishes, so this was a turn-off for me.  It also had preserved lemons, which added more bitterness than the probably intended bright citrus note to cut through the bacon.

Pumpkin Creme Brulee
The Pumpkin Crème Brulee ($9) wih pumpkin seed brittle, tasted like rich pumpkin pie filling.  It had the texture of soft custard, and not too sweet which let the taste of pumpkin shine through. 

Honey Vanilla Ice Cream
The Honey Vanilla ice cream ($8) is served in a hugely large serving dish with a large wooden spoon.  Underneath the gaudy exterior of the serving dish, is some top rate ice cream.  Flecks of vanilla bean run throughout the rich and creamy custard.

Apple Pie
The Apple Pie ($9) is the signature dish of the restaurant.  Unfortunately, this was the worst apple pie that I have ever had in my life.  The crust was dry and chewy, the filling was also dry and the apples seemed like they were almost dehydrated.  The streusel topping was salty and inedible.  I don’t if the pastry chef had an off day, but the dish was so bad that I had to send it back.

I like the farm to table concept of the Blue Duck Tavern, but it seems like the kitchen was having an off day on my visit.  Most dishes were okay, but not worthy of the accolades that have garnered the restaurant.  Although most of the dishes were solid, some of the dishes were a bit too salty.

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